Edvar Ter Haar, who came to stay at our house before returning to Amsterdam last month, and Yakup, whom we love very much, were drinking raki in good spirits.. As we continued to watch the effort to speak Turkish with the waiters on the verge of admiration, which you will be familiar with from the “Turkish girls’ reaction to the tourist trying to speak Turkish”, a light bulb suddenly appeared over our heads; We need to interview Edvar on Botswana, not on Amsterdam!

Edvar is a kid like the Benetton catalogue.. Born in England, father Dutch, mother Turkish, grew up in Belgium and Czech Republic but currently lives and works in Botswana. While we couldn’t even digest these, when he told us that he has 2 Botswana brothers, we put it in our minds, we started preparing the questions right away.. We learned so much about Botswana and we were so intrigued that a place we never thought of turned into one of the destinations we planned to go to.. Many topics from Botswana culture, safari, living conditions and places to visit are here with Edvar’s candid narration.. You will be fascinated especially when you read his memories about safari, he told us.

Before going back to Amsterdam last month, Edvar Ter Haar stopped by Istanbul to spend a few days at our house. While we were toasting our rakıs, (if you don’t know what rakı is pack your bags now) having a good time at one of our favorite spots Yakup (a traditional tavern like seafood restaurant in Taksim) we suddenly had a light bulb appear above our heads; we have to interview Edvar about Botswana!

Edvar, all by himself could make this season’s Benetton catalog. Born in England, has a Dutch father, a Turkish mother, grew up in Belgium and Czech Republic and now lives in Holland and does business in Botswana. Before we even got to sink in all this information, he told us he as 2 brothers from Botswana. And then we really set our mind to doing the interview, and came up with the questions as fast as we could. We found out so many interesting things about the country, that it quickly became a must see destination for us. Here you have it, a genuine interview that will let you explore the Botswana culture, Safari, living conditions, and much more. Enjoy!

Why are you going to Botswana? More precisely, for those who are too lazy to write to Google, it would be better to ask first, where is Botswana?

I have 2 brothers from Botswana and after living in England for a long time, they decided to move to my hometown, 1999 I visit Botswana often since. I enjoy being there so much that after I finished high school in Belgium, I took a break from school for a year and stayed there for 6 months.. During this time, I camped for 2 months in safari lodges across the country to help the project started by a non-governmental organization to protect cheetahs.. In fact, I can say that I am following in my father’s footsteps.. He lived there for 10 years when he was young (in 1970-1980), when there was still 3km of road in all of Botswana.. I too grew up listening to stories about Africa for years and decided to go there as soon as possible.

Botswana is located on the South African continent, between the countries of South Africa, Namibia, Zambia and Zimbabwe.. (if you said it from the beginning). It is a landlocked country, it has no coastline, that is, no beach! (damn- dubbing effect). The country is the size of France but has a population of 2 million.. As you can imagine, there is a lot of empty and uninhabited space.. Most of these lands are under strict protection as ‘nature reserves’.. And this is making a huge contribution to the development of wildlife in Botswana.. 80% of the land is covered by the Kalahari Desert. You can still meet someone wherever you go.. For example, on a motorcycle tour we made last year, we encountered a person walking by himself in the bushes even though the nearest town is hundreds of kilometers away.. He was also very pleased with himself, he gave us a smile and waved and continued on his way.. (just fine)

What is your general purpose of visit to Botswana? Or we should start by asking, for people who might know anything about Botswana and don’t want to take the time to Google it, where is Botswana?

I have been visiting Botswana since 1999 , partly because my two (half) brothers are from there and both of them have chosen to relocate to the country from the United Kingdom. After my trip for the millennium, I enjoyed the experience so much that I decided to spend 6 months in Botswana during my gap year. In those six months I worked for a human rights NGO, lived in a safari lodge for 2 months helping with Leopard conservation and traveled the country extensively. In many ways I was following in my father’s footsteps. He lived in Botswana for 10 years as a young man from the 1970-1980 – when there was only 3 km’s of road in the entree country. I grew up hearing stories about Africa, and went there as soon as I could…

Botswana is located in Southern Africa roughly between South Africa, Namibia, Zambia and Zimbabwe. As such, it is a landlocked country – which means it has no access to the sea and therefore no beaches (damn!). The country is about the size of France but only has a population of 2m people. As you can imagine, it has a lot of uninhabited land. Thankfully, much of the land has been given ‘Nature Reserve’ status, allowing Botswana wildlife to flourish. Much of the land, about 80%, is covered by the Kalahari Desert. However, you pretty much come across someone wherever you go. On a motorbike trip we were literally hundreds of kms from the nearest town and someone was just happily walking through the Bush with a big smile and friendly wave. /b>

One of the most defining features of Botswana, in my opinion, is that the country’s vision is broad, politically stable, and that it is successfully managed with great emphasis on its rich natural resources.. But from a touristic point of view, Botswana is famous for its extraordinary nature and wildlife.. Not to mention that it has one of the largest diamond resources in the world.. With the right decisions and leadership, the country has managed to preserve all these assets and develop itself.. I think that’s why all this makes Botswana so important and one of the exemplary countries in Africa.. Unfortunately, there are many bad examples in Africa, we all hear the stories.

What are the main things that define Botswana?

To me what defines Botswana is the successful way in which it has managed its rich natural resources thanks to its political stability and vision. Botswana is famous for its beautifully preserved wildlife and nature, in addition to its huge diamond reserves. Wise leadership has protected both of these valuable assets. Given some of the bad examples in Africa, to me this is what defines Botswana and makes it inspiring in Africa.

What are the features of Botswana that will draw us there and make us want to go?

Imagine Botswana as a huge nature park. When there are only 2 million populations in such a large country, there is a huge habitat for animals.. This is not an aggressive, busy and noisy place unlike other African countries.. People are kind, helpful and docile. Even in Gaborone, which is the busiest and business center here, people take time to chat and joke with each other, and prefer to live their lives at a slow pace and happily.. I have never met such a kind and friendly community as the Batswana (that’s what botswanas are called) people and that’s why I keep coming back. But the most interesting thing here is of course Safaris..

What are the things that would attract us to this country and make us want to visit?

Botswana is a very special country in the African continent. The country as a whole is like a giant nature reserve. With only 2m people in such a large country, many areas are left completely to the indigenous animal population. The point is that when you visit Botswana, you experience a country that is not aggressive, busy and noisy as some highly populated countries in Africa. Rather, the people are kind, gentle and peaceful. Even in the heart of the Central Business District of Gaborone, people take time to speak to each other and tell each other jokes. The pace of life is slower and people appear to be happier. I have never met such kind and gentle people as the Batswana (pural of people in Botswana) and that is one of the reasons I keep going back. But truly the biggest attraction is going on Safari…

When we say sad but true Africa, most of us think of something other than Safari not coming. Therefore, we are very curious about this subject.. Can you give us some information and tips about safaris? Is it safe to go on a safari tour here?

To truly understand the nature of Africa, all you have to do is go on Safari, other than camping. Personally, what excites me the most is that sense of adventure before the tour.. One cannot predict what you will encounter or see.. And you can encounter different things every time.

You must be wondering where to stay in the middle of nature, among so many wild animals.. There is no guarantee of what you will encounter in these Safaris, but at least you will have a comfortable and luxurious stay even though the environment is completely wild.. During the safari, you stay in private small bungalow type houses.. Some even have a private jacuzzi and pool.. These houses have an incredible architecture; rustic furniture, authentic decorations, straw roofs.. Here you can sleep comfortably, rest your head and take a shower.. The last time I went on Safari there was no pool or jacuzzi but an amazing outdoor shower. While I was taking my shower outside, I was surprised when I saw a lion coming towards me.. These houses have minibars and terraces where we can observe wild animals from afar.

Details are really important in safari tour organizations.. People get used to the wild environment and nature very quickly.. You get up at 5 in the morning, have a coffee or tea to wake up, have a small snack and immediately throw yourself into the 4×4 cars.. It’s dark outside, but your safari guide helps you spot the wild animals that start their day. Then you witness a magnificent African sunrise. When you return to your accommodation, a breakfast with many different dishes awaits you.. You can watch animals and nature while having your breakfast.. After breakfast is over, everyone goes back to their rooms, takes a nap for a few hours, swims in the pool, eats lunch, and gets back in the cars and goes on tour.. One of the most beautiful moments is when your tour guide, who is driving your car, suddenly stops and serves you a gin and tonic in the middle of the bushes and nature.

Evening meals are also a pleasure.. Sometimes when it’s cold, fires are lit and everyone on Safari gathers together. Don’t forget to ask your tour guide about the stories he lived before and you will hear amazing stories. Safari may not be for you if you are not adventurous, but it is something everyone should experience at least once in their life.

We all love giraffes, elephants, especially lions and all sorts of wild animals. Can you tell us about the safaris in Botswana? Is it safe to take a safari and how would you describe the experience?

Personally what makes Botswana, in my opinion, truly special and stand out from the crowd is its wildlife. One of the best ways to enjoy African nature, apart from camping in the wild, is by going on safari. What excites me the most about Safari is the sense of adventure leading up to the trip. There is always a great sense of the unknown – you never quite know what you will see or experience and each trip is different as you set out on your African adventure.

One thing you are guaranteed is a luxury stay in the middle of an otherwise completely wild environment. When on safari in Botswana the equivalent of a hotel room is a cottage. In other words, you have your own haven, a private cottage in which to relax, observe nature, sleep, wash and have a drink. The cottages are always beautifully designed, with thatch roofs, rustic wooden furniture and authentic interiors. They can be extremely luxurious, sometimes with private Jacuzzis and swimming pools. Last time I went there was no swimming pool or Jacuzzi, but I did have an amazing outdoor shower – though I jumped inside when I saw a lion approaching in the distance (see what I mean by adventure!). Each cottage has a terrace and a mini bar so you can enjoy a sundowner overlooking the wild animals from a safe distance.

When on safari you are really well looked after. Your whole stay will be extremely organized – you adapt to the rhythm of nature and the wild animals. At 05.00 am you will wake up, have morning coffee or tea, a small snack, and then jump onto your 4×4 where your game ranger will start your morning game drive. It’s pitch dark but your game ranger will help you spot the wildlife waking up. Soon you will experience the African sunrise over the horizon and nature will come alive. When you get back from your morning game drive at 09.00 am a huge breakfast is laid out for you with every food you could imagine. Your breakfast area always overlooks a watering hole, so you just keep watching the animals. After eating, everyone heads back to their cottage and gets a few hours of sleep. Then its time to wake up again, head to the swimming pool, eat lunch and then join on your afternoon game drive. Its always a special moment when the game ranger stops the car, sets out a table for you in the middle of the bush, and serves you a gin and tonic to enjoy as the sun sets across the hills in the distance.

When you get back to camp everyone is offered a glass of port or another refreshment and after discussing the events of the game drive everyone heads out to dinner. Dinner is always in a special location of the lodge – the place with the best view. Last time I was there it was still chilly at night, so the huge bonfire keeping us warm was a welcome treat. Everyone who joined you for your game drive is arranged to sit with you over dinner, along with your game ranger, so you can discuss in further detail the wildlife you saw and ask any questions you have. Often, I ask the game rangers about stories or experiences they have had in the past. Remember, they have been guiding people in the wild for many many years and often have a great story to tell. So ask them!

Going on safari, to me, is one of the best holidays imaginable. The combination of the excitement of a game drive and the peace and quiet of nature you experience from the comfort of your cottage is unbeatable. What I would say is that it is not for everyone, only those with an adventurous spirit. But even for those of a more sensitive disposition – you have to experience it at least once in your life.

What else should we do while we’re there? ? Is there anything you say you should never go back without doing/seeing?

At this point you are convinced that Botswana is famous for its nature and animals.. Apart from safaris, I think you should definitely camp.. Camping in this wilderness is like going on a Safari where you chart your own route, create your own adventure.. It definitely has a very different vibe and feel.. Of course, in this way, only a piece of nylon separates you from hyenas, lions, leopards and elephants, but the adrenaline this gives people is incredible.. The last time I camped like this, my brother brought a rifle with him, he threw a little half-empty pepper spray at me when I said, ‘What kind of ‘gun are you going to give me to protect myself?’. (They use it for us because we are like lions) Then of course, a lot of weird things happened to me: a one-eyed hyena attacking me while I was cooking meat (I admit it was stupid of me), when I was trying to bathe in the bushes, I suddenly came across a 4X4 full of tourists and they took pictures of me while I was naked, I don’t jump out of the car into a crocodile-filled water without trying to cross the river in my car, I rescue my aunt from monkeys trying to steal our food, I can’t sleep all night because of the sound of lions mating, I have coffee every morning with Amarula (like Botswana’s Baileys)

What other attractions are there to see? Is there something you would say “You have to be crazy not do do/see this before you leave”?

Let’s be honest what attracts most people to Africa if they are a tourist is the nature and wildlife. Apart from staying in a safari lodge, I would absolutely recommend that you also have a camping safari experience. Basically, camping in the wild of Botswana is like taking your traditional safari lodge experience, and turning the adventure/excitement switch to full blast. Trust me, it is a completely different feeling. Rather than living, sleeping and driving from a position of safety, you are living in the middle of the bush. When you are camping on the ground and nothing but a piece of nylon is separating you from Hyenas, Lions, Leopards and Elephants – now that’s an adventure. Last time I went camping my brother brought his shotgun just in case. When I asked him what I would get as protection, he threw me a small, half empty bottle of pepper spray. Now that’s brotherly love.

When you are on a camping safari, way more funny, scary and exciting things happen to you. Last time I had the following experiences: being attacked by a one-eyed Hyena whilst grilling a steak (probably not very clever of me); coming face to face with a 4×4 carrying 8 tourists who were on a game drive whilst I was naked having a “Bush shower” – they took lots of pictures; being ordered by my older brother before a river crossing: ‘get out of the car and test how deep the water is before I try to drive through it’– it was pretty deep and there were crocodiles; saving my sister in law from a group of Baboons who stole our cheese crackers; getting up in the morning after having been kept awake all night by mating Lions to find fresh Leopard tracks surrounding your tent; the warmth of a huge log fire on an African winter night, and drinking Amarula (local alcoholic drink similar to Baileys) with coffee first thing in the morning – every morning. Are there other cities, places where we can go?

Do not go to another city! Now, pack your things and go to your nearest Safari point. If you’re going to Gaborone (the capital of Botswana), you need to fly via Johannesburg, South Africa. If you have time, you can stay there for a few days.. Or you can fly to Cape Town, which is a very beautiful and worth seeing city.

Any close by cities we could include in our tour?

No! My advice would be get your shoes, khakis and shades on, hop into a small plane and fly to your nearest safari destination ASAP. If you are flying to Gaborone, the capital city of Botswana, then you are going to go via Johannesburg, South Africa. If that’s the case, then spend some time there and if you can fly over to Cape Town, which everyone agrees is stunningly beautiful.. I am sure there were even those who did not know that there is a country called Botswana until this interview.. Could you give us some information about the economic and political situation of the place? Is it a developing country? What are the natural resources? (Quickly take your hand off the mouse, we know you will try to pass this question)

Botswana has been developing very fast since it was declared an independent country in 1966. Its economic success is based on the fact that it is a multi-party democratic form of government.. Shortly after declaring its independence, it was discovered to be a huge diamond resource.. Four democratically elected presidents manage and protect these resources very well and invest their earnings for the benefit of the country and the people.. Botswana and this form of government are a very important example of how other countries in Africa should conserve and develop their natural resources.. Today, tourism and agriculture (especially meat export) are among the very important sectors.. But as I said, the most important economic support comes from diamond resources.. De Beers (the company with the most dominance in the diamond industry in the world) has recently moved its head office here. In summary, this is a very successful and safe country.

We don’t hear much about Botswana in the news. What is the economic and political state, is it a developing country, what are the main resources? (the next one is assuming you will say diamonds)

Botswana has been one of the fastest developing countries in the world since independence in 1966. Their economic success is closely tied to their political status as a multi-party democracy. In fact, shortly after independence Botswana discovered diamonds. Since then, a succession of four democratically elected presidents have used their wise leadership to preserve this natural resource and reinvest the proceeds for the benefit of Botswana and its people. Botswana is an example to Africa of how natural resource wealth, in combination with sound governance, can develop a nation. Today, key economic sectors include tourism and agriculture (beef exportation) but the biggest economic boost in Botswana is of course diamonds – they are the largest producer of diamonds by value in the world. In fact, De Beers has just relocated their global HQ to Botswana’s capital city. In other words – it’s a safe and successful country!

So everybody shines like a diamond in Botswana? Admittedly it was a pretty bad joke, but can we come back from there with tons of diamonds; Are the prices more affordable?

Yes, it was a really bad joke.. Not people but their smiles shine like diamonds. This joke is not inferior to ours.. To be serious, I’m sorry to say but no, it’s not cheap out there at all.. Diamond production is under strict control. In fact, if you are anyone who wants to buy a diamond, you may not even get close to the diamond.. The government is currently trying to encourage jewelery companies to revive the sub-segments of the diamond industry (polishing, cutting, processing).. So who knows, maybe there will be discount stores in the future, but I’m not very hopeful.

So does everyone in Botswana shine bright like a diamond? Ok this was a horrible joke. But can we come back with loads of jewelry; is it much cheaper over there?

Yes that is a horrible joke. They don’t shine bright like a diamond, but their smiles do. Ok, I admit, an equally horrible answer. But on a more serious note – I hate to tell you this but no, jewelry isn’t much cheaper there. The diamond production process is tightly controlled. In fact, if you are just a normal person looking to buy diamonds you probably wont get anywhere near diamonds. That said, the Botswana government, in their attempt to stimulate the downstream diamond industry in Botswana (polishing, cutting, manufacturing, jewelry production) is looking at bringing more jewelers to the country. So who knows, perhaps soon there will be discount diamond stores, but I’m sorry to say it’s not that likely.

What are the most distinctive features of Botswana culture? Are there any traditions that you find strange, that you can’t understand?. The social importance of tribes is still reflected in their culture and traditions today.. Which tribe people belong to still plays an important role in the formation of societies.. The shaping of tribes also contributes to the spread of Botswana democracy; certain decisions are made in traditional meetings that take place within the tribal society known as Kgotia in the tribes. In these meetings, members discuss their ideas and opinions in order to approve the decisions taken through open negotiations.. It becomes a very long democratic process, you see.

What also still features heavily in society, and this too finds its roots in tribal life, is the appreciation and reverence they have for nature. This manifests itself in many ways, but perhaps most specifically in the Botswana language. Although I cannot speak Setswana (the major language of Botswana) I have heard that many of the adjectives in the language find their origin and meaning in the observations stemming from occurrences in nature or behaviors of wild animals. The emphasis in Botswana on safeguarding Botswana culture through preserving tribal traditions and the natural environment seems as important today as it was hundreds of years ago. This is in my opinion one of the most special elements of their culture. Highlighting this is the fact that many Batswana today still own cattle (cows) and to this day spend much of their weekend tending their herd – at one with nature again. you did. You even have the thought of moving here in connection with your job, not just because of your family.. We are also wondering, how do people spend their days in such a wild and desolate country?

I just got back from a 3-week trip from Botswana with lots of business meetings and meetings and I will tell you how my days are. If I told you that it passed, I guess you would die of boredom.. Let me tell you about an ideal day in the form of a beautiful story.

The weather is sunny 340 days a year, so you wake up to a happy, super mood every day.. I think mornings are the best time of the day, especially when you consider that the temperature is 38-40 degrees in the afternoon in the summer. That’s why the locals like to start their day early, even at 5 am it is possible to see all the people standing up.. As the sun rises early in Africa and the sunlight enters your mouth in the early morning, it is not difficult to get up early.. Mornings are when people are most active, so I try to do my job interviews for breakfast.

Another thing that caught my attention is the importance people give to their relationships with each other.. For example, they prefer to do their job interviews over a coffee or a lunch.. It is not possible to find this sincerity in Amsterdam or cities like London.. Not everyone there cares about small things like making phone calls or writing emails.

There is also a very active expat community here. (Whatever you call expat: people who go to work outside their home country). Especially after De Beers moved its head office here, this community has grown.. If you ask what has it to do with the subject, the people in this group are constantly looking for an activity.. Almost every day someone invites you to eat, have a drink.

You have visited Botswana several times and say you might consider moving there as it is becoming a hub for your business. How would you describe a routine day in the country? How do the locals usually socialize besides work?

Having just returned from a three-week trip to Botswana I can tell you exactly what my routine was but it would bore you to death as I was in meetings all day. Instead, I can tell you what my ideal day in Botswana would be.

With about 340 days of sun a year, you can pretty much count on a beautiful, bright morning. Mornings are the best time of day, especially in the summer, when afternoon temperatures can rise to 38-40 degrees Celsius. As such, the majority of people are up at 5 am, which is easy in Africa because the sun rises early and you want to get out of bed. Because everyone is active in the morning, I would generally have a breakfast meeting for business or even better have lunch with one of my brothers who live there.

One thing I noticed in Botswana is that people there are happy to meet up for coffee or lunch to discuss business. There is still very much an emphasis on people to people relationships. I have sometimes missed this approach in Amsterdam or London, where everyone is so busy making phone calls and sending emails that they don’t have the time for a good cup of coffee. You can learn so much more over coffee than between screens.

There’s also a vibrant expat community in Botswana, which has just expanded by about 80 families who have moved to Gaborone along with the De Beers relocation. Almost every night someone invites you to have dinner at their place where you can sit outside and enjoy the cool breeze of sunset with a cold beer.

So what do young people do for fun? Is there nightlife, concerts, events? Also, we made it our heart to learn and try the drink specific to each country.. What is the special drink here? (We’re trying our luck elsewhere, as drinking gets harder every day here)

The teenagers here do exactly what other teenagers in the world normally do: they drink a lot and hang out with their friends a lot.. The main drink here is a specially fermented beer called Chibuku.. But people generally prefer beers specific to Africa.. A few brands that come to mind. Louis, Hanseatic and Castle. When it comes to nightlife, do not be surprised by Johannesburg and Istanbul and do not expect too much for this place.

What do the youngsters do for entertainment? Is there nightlife, events, concerts? And the most curious question of all, what is the local alcoholic beverage?

A lot of the youngsters do exactly what many youngsters do for entertainment – ​​spend a lot of time drinking the local alcoholic beverage and chilling out together. Actually, the truly local drink is called Chibuku, which is basically a specially brewed thick beer. However, I think most people choose just to drink locally brewed African beer. Well-known African brands I remember you can get there include St.. Louis, Hansa and Castle. In terms of nightlife I would stick to Johannesburg or Istanbul!

What was the weirdest thing that happened to you there? So at least it’s a situation that we’d find strange.

I don’t know why, but nothing very strange happens to me in Botswana.. Okay, it might have been a little exciting and unusual for me to be chased by a hippo in the middle of the night, getting caught in a sandstorm while camping in a salt lake, and finding scorpions in my bed.. Once, my shoulder was loose in a motorcycle accident and I had to ride the bike 800 km with one hand to get home.. This is of course more painful than a weird situation.

What is the weirdest thing that happened to you while you were there? Or something that we would think is very unusual?

For some reason weird things rarely happen to me when I am in Botswana. Ok apart from a few exciting moments in the wild when I have been chased by a hippo at night, experienced a sand storm in the salt lakes whilst camping and found scorpions in my bed. One time I dislocated my shoulder in a motorbike accident, so riding the 800kms back home one handed was pretty weird I suppose. Actually it was more painful than weird.

Note: Since we did the original interview in English, we made minor changes ourselves instead of translating it into Turkish so that it wouldn’t lose its meaning.

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